The LAWS of Poker Tells

[FeelnAcey]

When the player acts strong, he's probably weak. But he didn't really CHOOSE to act strong... this is just a "mechanism" inside of him that turns on, simply because he's LYING to you about his hand. Let me show you a few practical examples. Here are THREE valuable "tells" to look for: 1. When a player "flicks" his chips in the middle with extra OOMPH or tosses them in aggressively... What's going on there? I'll tell you what: The player is ACTING strong... which means he probably doesn't have a very good hand. 2. When a player speaks aggressively and talks a lot... Once again, this is usually a sign of weakness, since the player is "covering up" his bad hand by acting like he's got something. BUT... this poker tell is very easy to confuse and get COMPLETELY WRONG, and here's why: There is a major difference between SPEAKING AGGRESSIVELY and DEMONSTRATING CONFIDENCE. Here's what I mean... If a player talks a lot in a manner that's NOT normal for him, it's usually a sign of WEAKNESS. The way to sense this is to look for any signs of DESPERATION with his voice... But if the player is chatting along, having a good time, and seems quite CONFIDENT in general, it usually means he has a strong hand. It's a very subtle difference, and takes time to learn. 3. When a player looks you dead in the eye... This usually means the player does not have a strong hand. The "death stare" is simply an ACT of strength, but what it really means is WEAKNESS. Now... Let's flip this over and look at poker tells that will show you when a player is sitting on a monster hand... Because knowing when to FOLD is often times MORE IMPORTANT than just knowing when someone's bluffing you. So, repeating the second part of our mantra: "If a player acts WEAK, he is probably STRONG." ACTING WEAK is usually more subtle than acting strong... it's usually demonstrated in a way that is more like DISINTEREST. And once again, the player doesn't usually MEAN to act weak... it's simply a NATURAL MECHANISM. See Part 2

[FeelnAcey]

Of course, sometimes a player will INTENTIONALLY ACT WEAK, but the meaning behind it is still the same: He's got a strong hand. Here are three poker tells when a player is acting WEAK, but has a really great hand: 1. Looking AWAY and acting disinterested... and NOT making eye contact with you... This is the opposite of STARING YOU DOWN, which is a sign of weakness. This poker tell is ESPECIALLY apparent when the flop hits... if the flop REALLY helped a player, he'll usually just glance at it for a brief moment and then look away. (On the other hand, if a player stares at the cards on the flop for a long period of time, that usually means the flop did NOT help him.) 2. Being very quiet... When a player is PRAYING to himself that you're going to call his bet, he usually stays very quiet and to himself... If everyone at the table is laughing at something and a player suddenly gets QUIET... or kind of "forces" his laugh... then that's a sign he just picked up a monster hand. Beware! 3. Getting shaky... When a player's hands get very shaky, watch out. Some people think it's a sign of BLUFFING, but I sure hope you're not one of those people. Shaky hands is almost always a sign of a MONSTER HAND. Also... I might add here... that after someone WINS a really big pot, sometimes they get shaky as an "after effect". Honestly, I have no idea why. But I do know that it happens. So if someone just won a huge pot and is looking kind of shaky, that's probably why. Knowing about poker tells like these... both signs of WEAKNESS and signs of STRENGTH... is a very important part of WINNING POKER. If you'd like to discover MORE in-depth principles and step-by-step instructions on how to become the BEST DAMN POKER PLAYER at the table, just go to this link: FREE Award Winning Poker Newsletter

P.S. Be careful not to study the poker players on TV for bluffs and "tells". Most of these players are two or three steps FURTHER than anyone you play with... The pros will try to trick their opponents by doing stuff like INTENTIONALLY giving off a tell that is the OPPOSITE of the tell that would actually MISLEAD the opponent... It gets crazy. And that's why it's hard to learn how to spot a bluff by watching the pros. Instead, you can learn all the tells, and how to recognize them in live games by following my clear, easy-to-understand techniques: FREE Award Winning Poker Newsletter

Roy Rounder

[FeelnAcey]

I play 25 NL on Party and I will call a raise with any pair as long as the raise is less than 10% of the opposing players stack. My thinking, with a monster hand like AA or KK that he is raising; when I do hit my set I am taking his whole stack.
So I hit my set statistically 1 in 8 times and call any raise with any pair as long as its 10% or less of a players stack. I make most of my money on the no limit tables doing this.
My basic strategy is to raise the same with every hand as to not giveaway my hand.

AA, KK - raise 8 times the big blind (which is $2 on a 25NL table) and if someone has raised before me I usually put them to the test and reraise 3 times the amount they have put in or go all in.
AK, AQ - I raise 8 times the big blind if no one has raised in front of me. If someone has limped or no one has entered the pot I will raise 8 times the big blind. If the pot has been raised before me, I will only call if I have a decent read on the player.
QQ, JJ - I raise 8 times the big blind if no one has raised in front of me. If someone has limped or no one has entered the pot I will raise 8 times the big blind. If the pot has been raised before me, I will call and play cautiously post flop if I don't flop trips or my pocket pair is not the higher than the board.
AJ - This hand has gotten me in trouble. I usually limp in or call the big blind. I throw away to any raise before me and usually fold it if a raise comes behind me.
1010, 99, 88, 77, 66, 55, 44, 33, 22 - call the big blind. maybe raise 1010 and 99 in late position if no one has entered the pot. I will call a raise up 10% of the raising players stack. Post flop I know where I stand if I hit my set or not, or my pocket pair is above what the board shows. I usually move tables quickly after I double my stack up, because most players will learn how you play and its hard to get action on raises after they learn you play real hands and push with them.

[FeelnAcey]

In online poker, IMPLIED ODDS are a more important consideration than in offline poker. The reason is because of the common LOOSE-AGGRESSIVE style of play... When you make a significant bet, your chances of getting action are much higher than in your average home game or casino. That's why I like to limp-in with suited connectors... because if I hit my flush or straight I'm CONFIDENT that I'm going to win a huge pot from someone. The key is to NOT "chase" your outs. Don't stay in a hand and call all way down to the river with your draws... it's not worth it. Bet the draw upfront, and if you get raised just muck it. As for your question regarding pairs... It sounds to me like you're playing RING GAMES and not Sit and Go's. When I play a low-stakes ring game, my strategy is about the same as yours. The biggest difference for me is that I hate getting up and moving tables so frequently. I've found that when players begin losing money to you, they often WON'T STOP. They'll just keep losing money... DETERMINED to beat you. And of course, that's when you get the WINDFALL of profits from them... since they're on tilt and OUTRAGED that they can't seem to break you. What I'll do is show an occasional bluff... or even get busted on a bluff... that way they remain confused about my style of play. Remember: No limit Texas Holdem is PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE. As soon as you find a "fish" you can consistently beat, don't leave! Just keep playing until THEY decide enough is enough. OK, back to pairs. When I'm in a ring game, I will call small raises with pocket pairs, in hopes of busting my opponents. But in Sit and Go's I'm more cautious. And the reason is simple... In RING GAMES, I'll often play the "odds". Yes, there's a 1 in 8 chance that I'll make my trips. And so I'll play my pairs and take down huge pots when I hit. But in SIT And GO'S I can't always afford to put my chips into the middle. Remember, there's only ONE MAIN STRATEGY for Sit and Go's: SURVIVAL. If you don't make it to the top three players in a 10-man Sit and Go, you're not in the money, which means you've FAILED. And in your average Sit and Go, you'll probably only get a pocket pair once or twice (or maybe a few times if you're lucky) before the field gets down to three players. So what I've found is that it's often better for me to LIMP-IN with my pocket pair and hope for trips. If someone makes a decent raise, I'll usually muck it unless I'm the chip leader.

Roy Rounder

[FeelnAcey]

The dealer position (known as the "button") is the best position at the poker table. The reason is because when you're on the button, you get to act LAST after the flop... giving you the chance to see what your opponents do first. This lets you get a "read" on your opponents at the table... and decide who has a strong hand, who has a weak hand, who's bluffing, and so on. OK, so that's common knowledge. What's also common knowledge is the fact that LATE POSITIONING is preferred over EARLY POSITIONING... because once again, you get to see what your opponents do first before it's your turn to bet, raise, call, or fold. Of course, being on the button is BETTER than just plain late positioning... because the button GUARANTEES that you will be LAST TO ACT post-flop. OK, now here's what is NOT common knowledge... Once you understand positioning and its enormous implications, you can begin "improving" your positioning and setting yourself up for more pots each game. The technique is called STEALING THE BUTTON. It's simple... it's practical... and right when you're done reading this newsletter you can immediately start using it. Stealing the button is LEVERAGING your late positioning when you're NOT on the button... but getting all the same benefits as if you WERE on the button. Remember, the dealer position is SO POWERFUL because it means you're LAST to act post-flop. Being SECOND TO LAST to act isn't nearly as good, especially considering there's usually only three or four players to a flop at an 8-man table. So what you do is make a reasonable pre-flop RAISE when you're in late positioning... and therefore force the player on the button to fold. Having done this, you'll be last to act after the flop... the same as if you actually were on the button. (Hence the name, "stealing the button"). See Part 2 of 3

[FeelnAcey]

OK, let's look at an example so you can see what I'm talking about: Let's say you're sitting two seats to the RIGHT of the button at a 10-man table. The game is $1-2 no limit Holdem. Two players limp-in... and you look down at your cards: J-9 of clubs. I call hands like these "semi-connectors"-- they're not quite connected... but almost. The great thing about semi-connectors is that they're a "hidden hand". When they HIT (straight, flush, two pair...) your opponents NEVER see it coming. You decide to play your Jack-9 suited. Now remember, there are two players BEHIND you that will act post-flop if they both call the blinds. So it's YOUR JOB to make sure they DON'T limp-in. The solution is to crank up the pressure... You make it $15 to play. Nothing crazy (after all, you don't exactly have a monster). You simply want to force the two players to your left to FOLD... which will happen most of the time. Of course, they won't always fold... because sometimes they'll pick up a big hand. But odds arethey'll fold. The RESULT, of course, is now YOU have the button. Well, not the button exactly... but all the advantages that it brings. Sure enough, the two players to your left fold, and Josh-- who's in the big blind-- is the only caller. The flop comes out: 10h-8d-Ks No flush possibilities for you here, but BINGO, you've just flopped an open-ended straight draw. This is the type of flop you hoped for. Now it's on Josh to act first. And this is where your positioning is so important. Not only do you get to see what Josh does first... but you also have the CONTROL in this situation. Since you made the pre-flop raise, Josh will likely check the flop to you... giving you the opportunity to play aggressively and take down this pot. No matter what happens after this, you've set yourself up to win this pot. Sometimes Josh will pick up a real hand and come out firing... but usually not. Sure enough in our example, Josh checks. You throw out a $30 semi-bluff. This is a bet you should make even WITHOUT the open-ender... because you made the pre-flop raise. Josh mucks it, and you rake the chips... leaving the table wondering what you had. That's how you "steal" the button.

[FeelnAcey]

It's a simple, surefire way to gain control at the table by improving your positioning. There are five main steps you need to know... 1. You need a playable hand. If you're going to bluff, make it a "semi-bluff" by raising with a hand that can hit... something like semi-connectors. I personally don't like raising with 7-2 offsuit or crap like that. It seems to me like an "ego raise" more than a logical play. Remember, the key is to gain that extra bit of control and power by acting LAST after the flop. 2. Force out the player on the button (and possibly the player to his right). The whole point to stealing the button is to ACTUALLY STEAL THE BUTTON. If you make a wussy raise that doesn't scare anyone, you've failed. If you're one seat to the right of the button, you want to raise enough to force the player on the button out. If you're TWO seats to the right, then you've got to force out both players to your left. One of the "secrets" to this process is to ALWAYS pay attention to the pre-flop betting patterns of your opponents on the left. If you're sitting on the right of "Tight Tim" who only sees flops when he's got pocket pairs, then you can steal the button quite often. On the other hand, if you're on the right of a LOOSE player, you won't be able to steal the button nearly as much. So pay attention. 3. After the flop, your opponents will usually check to you. Notice if someone bets into you, beware. That's a red flag. Usually players will check into you since you raised pre-flop. When players check into you that gives you the power to either BET and try to steal the pot right there... OR... get a free turn card by also checking. While I normally recommend a bet, you can check to mix it up once in awhile or in the case that you're getting short-stacked. 4. Don't get pot-committed. Remember, stealing the button is a simple technique that improves your position and sets you up to have a BETTER CHANCE at winning the hand. Don't get stupid. Don't get stubborn and bet any amount in hopes of bluffing out someone with a real hand. Like I said, you need a playable hand to steal the button in the first place. Don't become pot-committed... Never bet so much that it's PAINFUL to fold your cards after the flop. 5. Sometimes you don't need to raise to steal the button. Often the blinds will be high enough where you figure simply CALLING the big blind will get you the button (this is especially true when you're to the right of a tight player). Also, someone in front of you might raise the pot enough that all you have to do is CALL THE RAISE and you'll get the button. OK, so that's the process... Here are the two types of situations where you DO want to steal the button... DO STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN: 1. You sense weakness and want to steal the pot on a bluff or hidden hand. 2. You have a good hand that you want to play post-flop. On the other hand... DO NOT STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN: 1. You have a poor hand and you sense someone else has a strong hand. 2. You think someone to your left will call a raise no matter what (that defeats the purpose). The MOST IMPORTANT lesson you can get from all this is to realize that winning poker depends on ALL THE LITTLE THINGS. Stealing the button is just a little technique for setting yourself up for better positioning... it's not a "game changing" strategy that will double your poker profits or anything. But when you combine it with ALL THE OTHER LITTLE THINGS-- like establishing the right table image, throwing out feeler bets, representing the flop at the right times, buying free cards, picking up betting patterns, spotting tells, and more-- then you will become a DYNAMIC and POWERFUL poker player... AND THEN your poker profits will double. A lot of amateurs base their games on the "big hands" and might get lucky once in awhile. But over time, the REAL MONEY always goes to the GRINDERS... the guys who know how to CONSISTENTLY take down pots. It takes a lot of discipline, don't get me wrong. But you can do it.

Roy Rounder

[gorgeousdre]

This was a very a good post pretty long and wordy but very informative.. it's for players doing opposite from what i am doing... I'm coming from the live game to the internet it's pretty hard to read tells online.. Only way is patterns and how long they take to call certain bets opposed to calling you instantaneously on a bet..

[butterfly_kzz]

wow great post i saved it to bookmark, tyvm there is a lot of information here to digest...

[tiff_610]

great advice must try it out